In the southern Hungarian town of Mohacs, something extraordinary happens every year before Lent. For six days, masked figures in shaggy sheepskin costumes roam the streets, shaking cowbells and wooden rattles to drive away winter. This is Busojaras, and since 2009 it has been inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as the first Hungarian tradition to receive this recognition.
Origins and History
The exact origins of Busojaras are debated among historians and folklorists. The most popular local legend claims that during the Ottoman occupation of Hungary (1526-1687), the Sokac people living near Mohacs disguised themselves in terrifying masks and costumes to frighten away the Turkish invaders. However, historical records suggest that the Sokac community actually settled in the Mohacs area after the Ottomans had already left.
What historians generally agree on is that Busojaras has roots in pre-Christian seasonal rituals common across Central and Southeastern Europe. The masked procession, the noise-making, and the symbolic burning of winter are elements found in many European carnival traditions, from the Kukeri of Bulgaria to the Krampus runs of Alpine regions. What makes Busojaras unique is the specific combination of Sokac ethnic identity, the distinctive hand-carved masks, and the scale of the celebration.
The Costumes and Masks
The Buso costume consists of several distinctive elements. The most striking is the mask (alarc), hand-carved from willow wood by local craftsmen. Each mask is unique, featuring exaggerated, sometimes frightening features designed to ward off evil spirits and the winter cold. Traditionally, masks were painted with animal blood, though modern versions use commercial paints.
The full costume includes a thick sheepskin cloak (bunda), canvas trousers, and heavy boots. Busos carry wooden rattles (kerepelo) and clubs (buzogany), and wear large cowbells strapped to their waists. The combined noise of hundreds of Busos shaking rattles and bells creates an unforgettable wall of sound that echoes through the streets of Mohacs.
What Happens During Busojaras
The celebration spans six days, with the intensity building toward the climax on Shrove Tuesday. Key events include:
- Thursday to Saturday - Buso groups begin gathering and smaller processions take place through neighborhoods. Cultural programs, exhibitions, and traditional music fill the town center.
- Sunday (Farsang Sunday) - The Busos cross the Danube by boat in a dramatic procession, landing on the Mohacs waterfront to the cheers of spectators. This river crossing is one of the most photographed moments of the festival.
- Monday - Continued processions, folk music concerts, and children's programs. The Buso groups visit each other's neighborhoods.
- Shrove Tuesday - The grand finale. A massive procession through the main streets of Mohacs culminates in the burning of a coffin symbolizing winter on the main square. As the flames rise, winter is officially banished.
Getting There and Practical Tips
Mohacs is approximately 200 kilometers south of Budapest, reachable in about 2.5 hours by car via the M6 motorway. Regular buses connect Budapest (Nepliget station) to Mohacs, taking roughly 3 hours. On the busiest days (Sunday and Tuesday), special shuttle buses and additional services are often arranged.
Accommodation in Mohacs itself is limited and books up months in advance. Many visitors base themselves in Pecs, Hungary's fifth-largest city located about 40 kilometers away, which has a wider range of hotels and restaurants. Day trips from Budapest are also feasible, though you will want to arrive early to get a good vantage point for the processions.
The weather in late February can be cold and unpredictable. Dress warmly in layers and wear waterproof shoes, as the streets can get muddy from the crowds. Traditional food stalls sell warm langos, sausages, and mulled wine throughout the event.
Cultural Significance Today
Beyond the spectacle, Busojaras plays an important role in preserving the cultural identity of the Sokac community and the town of Mohacs. Mask carving, costume making, and the traditional songs associated with the festival are actively passed down to younger generations through workshops and apprenticeships. The UNESCO recognition in 2009 significantly boosted international awareness and helped secure funding for preservation efforts.
For visitors interested in the deeper cultural context, the Busojaras Wikipedia article provides detailed historical background, and the Mohacs Buso Museum offers year-round exhibitions about the tradition, including original masks and costumes from past decades.